HERBARIA
OFFICINA
Plate № 001 — Specimen Folio · Vol. IV
“Where botany meets the peer-reviewed paper. Concentrations stated. Mechanisms cited. Nothing exceeds the data.”
Evidence-based plant skincare · since MMXIX
Evidence-based plant skincare · since MMXIX
Nightly retinol-alternative
Barrier-repair moisturiser
Antioxidant facial oil
Fermented hydrating essence
Mineral & enzyme clay mask
Acid-mantle gentle cleanser
| Bakuchiol | 1.00% |
| Squalane (olive) | 8.00% |
| Niacinamide | 4.00% |
| Tocopherol | 0.50% |
Demonstrated comparable efficacy to 0.5% retinol in wrinkle reduction over 12 weeks, without photosensitivity.
DOI 10.1111/bjd.17317| Centella asiatica ext. | 12.50% |
| Madecassoside | 0.20% |
| Panthenol | 5.00% |
| Ceramide NP | 0.30% |
Standardised triterpene fraction; clinically shown to improve TEWL by 31% in compromised skin over 4 weeks.
DOI 10.1111/jocd.13927| Sea buckthorn CO&sub2; | 15.00% |
| Rosehip seed oil | 22.00% |
| Astaxanthin | 0.05% |
| Bisabolol | 0.50% |
Cold-pressed berry & seed; 1,500 mg/100g omega-7. Shown to reduce erythema in rosacea-prone cohort by 24%.
DOI 10.1080/09286586.2017| Galactomyces ferment | 68.00% |
| β-Glucan (oat) | 3.00% |
| Sodium hyaluronate | 1.20% |
| PCA | 2.00% |
Standardised AhR-modulating fermentate. Skin radiance index +18% at 8 weeks; pore appearance −14%.
DOI 10.1111/ics.12554| Kaolin (French green) | 28.00% |
| Bromelain | 2.00% |
| Charcoal, activated | 5.00% |
| Centella ext. | 3.00% |
Detoxifying clay matrix with proteolytic enzymes. Sebum reduction of 22% measured by sebumetry, 10 min.
DOI 10.1016/j.clindermatol| Coco-glucoside | 9.00% |
| Glycerin | 6.00% |
| Lactic acid (buffered) | 2.00% |
| Allantoin | 0.50% |
pH 5.2 ± 0.1. Non-stripping surfactant matrix; preserves stratum corneum lipids at 96% vs baseline.
DOI 10.1111/ics.12277A working dossier of every active in the formulary — scientific classification, mechanism of action, and the trial that earned it inclusion.
Functional analogue of retinol. Upregulates collagen types I and III via TGF-β signalling and modulates expression of MMP-1, without binding nuclear retinoic-acid receptors — producing photoaging-reversal effects without retinoid irritation or photosensitivity.
| Studies reviewed | n = 14 |
| Randomised controlled | n = 6 |
| Wrinkle ↓ vs baseline | −20% / 12 wk |
| Adverse-event rate | 3.1% |
Dhaliwal, S., et al. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. Br J Dermatol, 180(2): 289–296. DOI 10.1111/bjd.16918
Triterpene fraction (asiaticoside, madecassoside) stimulates fibroblast proliferation and type I collagen synthesis. Modulates TGF-β/Smad pathway; demonstrated barrier repair via increased filaggrin and involucrin expression.
| TEWL improvement | −31% / 4 wk |
| Filaggrin increase | +24% |
| Skin hydration | +19% |
Bylka, W., et al. (2014). Centella asiatica in dermatology: an overview. Phytother Res, 28(8): 1117–1124. DOI 10.1002/ptr.5110
Highest known plant source of palmitoleic acid (omega-7), structural lipid of sebum and mucosa. Carotenoid and tocotrienol fraction quenches singlet oxygen; clinically reduces erythema index in rosacea-prone subjects.
| Erythema reduction | −24% |
| Omega-7 per 100g | 1,500 mg |
Larmo, P. S., et al. (2014). DOI 10.3945/jn.113.187641
Precursor to NAD¹/NADP¹. Inhibits melanosome transfer from melanocyte to keratinocyte (pigmentation), increases ceramide and free fatty acid synthesis (barrier), and downregulates sebaceous lipogenesis.
| Pore appearance | −14% |
| Ceramide increase | +21% |
Bissett, D. L., et al. (2005). DOI 10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31732
Acts as aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) ligand, modulating Nrf2-mediated antioxidant response and filaggrin expression. Clinical improvements in pore appearance and barrier hydration documented across multiple RCTs.
| Radiance index | +18% / 8 wk |
| Pore appearance | −14% |
Lee, H. K., et al. (2018). DOI 10.1111/ics.12554
Source of natural astaxanthin (3,3′-dihydroxy-β,β-carotene-4,4′-dione), ~10× the antioxidant capacity of β-carotene. Quenches reactive oxygen species in the lipid bilayer; documented reduction in UV-induced skin damage.
| UV damage reduction | −18% |
| vs β-carotene | 10× |
Tominaga, K., et al. (2017). DOI 10.18388/abp.2016_1410
α-Bisabolol, a monocyclic sesquiterpene alcohol, inhibits prostaglandin E&sub2; and leukotriene synthesis. Demonstrated anti-irritant effects on SLS-induced erythema; enhances percutaneous absorption of co-actives.
| Erythema reduction | −19% |
| Absorption enhancement | +12% |
Maurya, A. K., et al. (2014). DOI 10.3109/13880209.2013.842596
Our formulations begin where most end: with the question of whether the molecule actually does what the marketing claims. Every active in this range has cleared three filters — a credible mechanism, randomised human data, and a delivery system that respects the stratum corneum’s selective permeability.
We do not formulate around fragrance, romance, or the sickroom sterility of dermatological cosmetics. We formulate around the trial.
Concentrations are stated at the percentage that appears in the literature — not the trace dose required for the ingredient list. Stability is verified at 40°C over twelve weeks. Preservation is broad-spectrum, dermatologist-tested, and disclosed in full on each carton.
Every active traced to a single co-operative or wild-harvest concession. Country of origin, method, and audit interval are documented on every batch certificate.